P*ONG
150 W. 10th St., nr. Waverly Pl.; 212-929-0898
Pichet Ong originally made his reputation as the pastry chef at Spice Market, producing high-concept Asian-inspired confections. At P*ONG, his stylish new Greenwich Village spot, Ong inventively blurs the line between sweet and savory, playing with texture and flavor to often captivating effect. One asks, “Is the impressive-looking foie gras Napoleon dinner or dessert?” The appropriate answer might be, “Who cares?” Layers of crisp cacao nib and hazelnut tuiles, slices of salty foie gras torchon, and spicy red-pepper jam are topped with diced vanilla-roasted pineapple and microgreens, creating not only sweet and savory but also bitter, tangy, and spicy flavors in one bite. Just call it delicious.