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Cozy as a cellar but offering an airy lookout onto Seventh Avenue, Beer Table’s one long room is an intimate space—there’s room for six at each of the bar’s three wide tables—that crowds slowly. Inside, the dim glow of lanterns fashioned from canning jars could be utilized to distract patrons from a subpar specialty-draft list; thankfully, Beer Table’s menu is the real deal. The stock (usually around three specialty drafts, plus a dozen or so bottles) is painstakingly chosen and rotated almost daily by owner and former beer importer Justin Philips, from delicate Reissdorf Kölsch to the nose-singeing stout Goose Island Bourbon County. An excellent selection of cheeses (Great Hill Blue, Ossau Irati) and charcuterie matches the beer flavor for flavor. — Tom Blunt