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The Insatiable Critic Archive

August 25, 2008
Sheridan Square

Chef Franklin Becker inherited a dysfunctional work-in-progress when Gary Robins vanished from Sheridan Square.

August 18, 2008
Delicatessen

The crowd skews young at Delicatessen, a new ­comfort-food initiative from the folks at Cafeteria.

August 11, 2008
Convivio

Michael White and partner Chris Cannon bolted the door at L’Impero for two weeks and invented Convivio.

July 21, 2008
Matsugen

Clearly, Jean-Georges Vongerichten is betting our town’s noodleheads will be moved by Matsugen.

June 16, 2008
Hundred Acres

There is no mule tethered to a lamppost out front of Hundred Acres.

May 19, 2008
Wildwood Barbeque

Faux smoke and grime above Wildwood’s bar want to suggest that barbecue belongs to the city.

May 12, 2008
Benoit

Alain Ducasse’s need to be embraced by New York has a real chance for fulfillment at Benoit once he whips the kitchen up a bit.

May 5, 2008
Padre Figlio

I was put off by an old-fashioned lack of focus in an early visit to Padre Figlio.

April 28, 2008
Tet

Tet is the most ambitious effort yet from Saigon-born Steven Duong.

April 21, 2008
La Rural

La Rural, an Argentine bistro, looks a lot like its predecessor, Pampa.

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