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Amid Flushing's Chinese markets, Asia's lesser known Afghani and Persian cuisines are well represented at Kabul Kebab House. The headlining kebabs, such as lamb tikka, chaplee (ground beef with veggies) and saffron-infused chicken, are grilled by cooks in the glass walled kitchen to a charred and surprisingly moist finish. A small plate of badenjan buranee holds tender slices of baked eggplant topped with a yogurt and tomato sauce, and khoresht gheimhe, a stew of beef, lemon and split peas in spicy tomato sauce, is nicely cooled by green rice, a basmati with vivid flecks of dill. (Afghan food isn't typically hot, but crushed chilies are set on the table for spice fans.) Kabul's spare but pleasant space, decorated with Persian arches and Afghani prints, doesn't encourage lingering, but the teeth-numbingly sweet homemade rosewater ice cream, topped with a sprinkling of crushed pistachios, does. — Scott DeSimon

Diners can bring their own beer and wine, though those looking for the full experience should quaff a glass of doogh, a lightly carbonated yogurt drink made in-house.

Badenjan buranee, $3.50; khorest gheimhe, $10.45; homemade ice cream, $3.50