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Tripoli has resided on Atlantic Avenue's Middle Eastern row since 1973. The restaurant has survived many incarnations (a fire caused it to move across the street), yet what looks to be a perpetual lack of patrons makes Tripoli's longevity astonishing. The bi-level space is cavernous, laden in hand-carved wood with 20-foot ceilings and walls covered in murals of—you guessed it—the shores of Tripoli. It would take the population of a small village to make the room bustle. But with arguably the best regional food on the strip, why isn't Tripoli packed nightly? The kibbee nayeh could induce a mob: ground raw lamb drenched in Lebanese olive oil that deliquesces once it hits the tongue. The malfouf (cabbage stuffed with lamb, cumin and rice in pomegranate juice) is tangy and sweet, and among the many vegetarian plates, the seleck b'loubia holds a robust combination of sautéed black-eyed peas, celery, garlic, and onions. The Traditional Maza is a great way to enjoy a bit of everything with a sampling of 20 different Lebanese dishes, from hummus to vegetable kibee. In fact, why not grab twenty friends to share? Tripoli will likely have room for everyone. — T Sahara Meer

The front of the restaurant used to house a boat, hand-made by the owner (who also carved all the intricate chairs). Remnants of the bow still remain on the second floor and photos can be found in the enormous party room downstairs.

Lebanese traditional maza, $41.95