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With just a handful of tables, a few red sconces, and some is-there-table-service-or-not confusion, Empire Kitchen is actually a takeout spot that's made a concession to those who wish to stay. Any who do should flag the waitress to learn how each dish is prepared: The kitchen has the habit of deep frying dishes into oblivion so that hot chili pepper chicken might taste like popcorn chicken with hot sauce. Which isn't to say the fryer delivers only culinary curios: Basil pancakes are pleasantly light and flaky, and fried vegetable dumplings have a hearty (if suspiciously meaty) flavor. The real draw here, oddly enough, is the special diet and health menu. This option lets you concoct your own dish with meat, seafood or tofu and a bevy of fresh vegetables, accompanied by your choice of sauce on the side. — Justin Hartung

Basil pancake, $3.50; moo shu shrimp, $7.50