Profile

Springing up seemingly overnight amid Manhattan Ave.'s well-worn bodegas and vinyl-clad apartments, Lamb & Jaffy introduces welcome panache into Greenpoint’s scruffy northern frontier. Its inviting French-door façade, conspiratorially underlit interior, dark-wood furnishings, and Spartan off-white walls create a warm, decidedly grown-up atmosphere missing from—or avoided by—the edgier, hipster-courting eateries over on Franklin Ave. The effect might seem routine in a more upscale setting, but chef Michael De Prima's dishes would stand out anywhere; he is adept at evoking a whimsical clash of opposites—tangy and sweet, crisp and silky—that's all the more intriguing for bringing everyday ingredients to vibrant life. The delectable juxtapositions carry over to the entrees: the rich, buttery centers of the seared sea scallops play decadently off the near-crunchy surface, while the beefy simplicity of the cast-iron flank steak is given depth by a hearty, piquant potato gratin side. The only letdown is a much-touted molten chocolate cake, which recalls hot brownie batter plopped next to a wad of unremarkable vanilla ice cream. Given the casually elegant milieu, the cheese plate makes for a more fitting finish. — Mark Holcomb

Sat.—Sun., 10 a.m.—3 p.m.

Catering 
Information on De Prima's catering service, Dream Cuisine Fine Catering, is available by calling the restaurant or visiting dreamcuisinenyc.com

Seared sea scallops, $18