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Both Atkins loyalists and fans of hearty Colombian cuisine will find much to like at this Jackson Heights eatery, where grilled beef, chicken and pork are king. Among the carnes asadas, the platter of steak topped with avocado, egg yolk and deep-fried bacon is a triumph of down-home indulgence, boasting a thin, nicely salted and charred steak that reveals a juicy dark pink on the inside. A topping of homemade green chili paste is the kicker, and for carb-ivores, sides of sweet yellow plantains and red beans and rice make hearty companions. Each day brings soup specials, such as oxtail on Wednesdays, beef and vegetable soup Thursdays, and Friday's mustard-colored, garlic-infused fish soup, which has a delicacy that nicely contrasts with the restaurant's cholesterol-rich entrees, and adds a touch of refinement to the peach-and-aqua hued, Florida diner ambience. — Michael R. Schreiber

Bandeja Campesina (Country Plate), $13.50; lomo de cerdo (grilled pork loin), $13.50