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neighborhood tours |
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Poetry Below 14th Street
From Walt Whitman to the Beat generation to modern-day
slam poets, New York has inspired writers to immortalize in
verse its streets, its crowds, its taxis and drunks and skyscrapers.
But these poets have given the city more than their stanzas—Manhattan
below 14th Street is chock-full of their homes and hangouts,
not to mention the hallowed spaces where today’s poets continue
to read works.
BY MATT GROSS

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Any poetry tour of Manhattan
should begin, however, in Brooklyn, where Whitman used to catch
the boat that inspired his classic poem “Crossing Brooklyn Ferry.”
Frolic on, crested and scallop-edg’d waves! you may say to yourself
as the New York Water Taxi pulls out into the East River
from Fulton Street in DUMBO. Look up and you’ll see the Brooklyn
Bridge “vaulting the sea” (as Hart Crane put it in his “To Brooklyn
Bridge”) and six minutes later you’ll arrive at Pier 11, near
the relatively unpoetic South Street Seaport.
New York Water Taxi, 212-742-1969; nywatertaxi.com;
$5
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Thankfully, the 1 and
9 trains aren’t far away—take them uptown to Christopher Street
(once aboard, look up and you may even catch a little of the
MTA’s “Poetry in Motion” to read along the way). From there,
it’s a short walk to the Cornelia Street Café, where
the cozy basement readings range from open-mike nights to an
intercultural poetry series. Dinner upstairs is quite nice (lobster
ravioli, roast breast of smoked duck), but any walking tour
of New York poetry is also necessarily a drinking tour. Take
your pick: Chumley’s or the White Horse Tavern.
It’s a tough call—both have great selection of beers on tap.
Chumley’s is an ex-speakeasy festooned with photos of literary
patrons like Edna St. Vincent Millay; and at the White Horse,
Dylan Thomas once drank eighteen whiskeys and died the next
morning. Talk about not “going gentle.”
Cornelia Street Café,
29 Cornelia Street, 212-989-9319; corneliastreetcafe.com; admission
varies
Chumley’s, 86 Bedford
Street, 212-675-4449
White Horse Tavern,
567 Hudson Street, 212-989-3956 |
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Now it’s time for some actual poetry: Zigzag east-ish, passing
a host of landmarks: 137 Waverly Place, where Edgar
Allan Poe once lived, now occupied by a branch of Douglas
Elliman; the church at 55 Washington Square South,
which hosted the avant-garde 50s-era Judson Poets Theater;
and 653 Broadway, whose basement once housed Pfaff’s
beer hall, where Whitman used to hold court with friends like
Thomas Nast and William Dean Howells (the space is now a “piercing
spa”). Eventually, you’ll hit St. Mark’s Poetry Project,
which, back in the days of heroin and street crime, was home
base for New York School poets like Frank O’Hara and John
Ashbery (who returns once in a while to take part in the ongoing
reading series). Head south, and you’ll notice Telephone
Bar & Grill (149 Second Avenue; 212-529-5000), where “$1
comedy” on Thursday nights recalls—if you’ve had enough Bass—the
staccato self-consciousness of the Beat poets who used to
hang out here back when it was Le Metro café.
St. Mark’s Poetry Project, Second Avenue at 131 E.10th
Street, 212-674-0910; poetryproject.com;
admission $8, $7 students and seniors, $5 members)
Telephone Bar & Grill,
149 Second Avenue, 212-529-5000
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For better or worse, New York’s most
vibrant versification venues are the poetry slams. Mondays are
for Bar 13, an otherwise generic, lava-lamped lounge
that comes alive with a tattooed and funky slam crowd (sample
line: “Crackhead robbed me—again”). On Wednesdays, the Reverend
Jen continues her seven-year-long nonjudgmental Anti-Slam, at
Collective Unconscious. Once the summer is over, the
peppy, cleanly scrubbed Bowery Poetry Club & Café will
resume its Thursday-night slams, where you may hear verses about
allergies that are, if not necessarily poetic, at least emphatic.
On Fridays, wander down to the grand-pappy of the slam scene,
the Nuyorican Poets Café.
Bar 13, 35 East 13th Street, 212-979-6677; bar13.com;
cover varies
Collective Unconscious, 279 Church St., 212-254-5277;
weird.org
Bowery Poetry Club & Café, 308 Bowery; 212-614-0505;
bowerypoetry.com,
$3
Nuyorican Poets Café, 236 East 3rd Street,; 212-505-8183;
nuyorican.org; $7
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When you’ve had enough
of angelheaded hipsters, cap off the night by dragging yourself
to 404 East 14th Street, where you can say a Kaddish
for Allen Ginsberg, who lived in this six-story tenement until
his death in 1997. Plus, if you’re starving (but not naked or
hysterical), you can pop into the McDonald’s on the ground floor—rumor
has it the Bacon Ranch Salads here will make you howl…
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